Counter flashing
New counter flashing is let into the brick instead of caulked to the face.
Most leaks around a chimney in Caldwell come from the flashing, and a roofer can fix them with new step and counter flashing set into the brick instead of tar, and check whether the crown or brick is part of the problem. Dial (862) 399-1003 to talk with a local roofer about the chimney leak.
Few places on a roof leak as often as the gap around a chimney. Masonry and wood framing expand, shrink and settle at different rates, which is why chimney flashing is built in two parts that can slide past each other. That is why a single strip of metal glued to the brick with sealant does not last.
A correctly flashed chimney uses a system, not a single piece. The front gets an apron, the sides get step flashing, the back gets a pan or cricket, and counter flashing tucked into the brick seals the top of it all. Counter flashing that is only caulked onto the brick face is one of the most common causes of chimney leaks.
Not every leak around a chimney is a flashing leak. Leaks that continue after new flashing often trace back to the crown, the cap or the brick itself. A careful look covers both the flashing and the visible masonry above it.
If the problem goes deeper than it first looked, a Caldwell roofer may also recommend flashing repair or roof leak repair.
Need chimney flashing repair in Caldwell? Call (862) 399-1003 to reach a nearby roofing contractor.
Call nowHere is how a roofer typically handles chimney flashing.
The roofer looks at the flashing on all four sides, the mortar joints, the crown and cap and the attic framing around the chimney. That separates true flashing leaks from water coming through the chimney itself.
Old flashing and sealant come off, and the shingles next to the brick are lifted or removed. Soft or rotted decking around the chimney is replaced at this stage.
After a self-adhered membrane wraps the base of the chimney, the apron goes on the downhill face and step pieces are woven up both sides with new shingles. Nothing is fastened to the masonry at this stage, so the roof and chimney can move.
Behind the chimney, a metal back pan or a framed cricket keeps water and debris from piling up. Wide chimneys need a cricket under most residential codes.
Counter flashing is let into a ground-out mortar joint and sealed, overlapping the base flashing below. Set into the brick, it lasts far longer than metal glued to the face.
New counter flashing is let into the brick instead of caulked to the face.
Step pieces up both sides of the chimney are replaced one piece per course.
A saddle diverts water around the uphill side which stops one of the most common chimney leaks.
A one-piece apron is installed across the downhill face to shed water onto the roof.
Water-damaged wood at the chimney is cut out while the area is open.
Chimney flashing replacement makes sense when the metal is rusted, the counter flashing is only glued to the brick or the joint has been tarred over several times. Patching a system that was installed wrong rarely works, because the problem is in how the pieces overlap. Adding a cricket during replacement solves the uphill pooling at the same time.
The metal choice matters around masonry. Lime in mortar corrodes bare aluminum, so copper, coated steel or coated aluminum are common choices. Ask which metal the roofer plans to use and why.
A chimney can leak at the roof line or from the top down, and the fix is different for each. Flashing leaks show up during rain at the roof line, often worse on the uphill side, while masonry leaks can appear on any side and may continue for a while after the rain stops as soaked brick drains. Hose testing each side and then the chimney top separately settles the question.
If the masonry is the source, the fix may involve the crown, the cap or the brick. A cracked crown needs sealing or rebuilding, a missing cap lets rain straight down the flue, and porous brick can be treated with a breathable water repellent made for masonry. The roofer can spot many of these from the roof and tell you who should fix them.
In Caldwell, many chimney flashing problems show up on homes with wide brick chimneys and no cricket behind them. From Caldwell out to neighboring towns such as Roseland, Pine Brook, Glen Ridge and Totowa, older brick chimneys tend to need counter flashing reset into worn mortar, while newer framed chases more often leak at the chase top or siding joint, so expect the roofer to ask which type is on your house.
Searching for chimney flashing repair near me from Caldwell or Roseland, Pine Brook, Glen Ridge and Totowa? Call (862) 399-1003 to talk to a roofer who works in your part of town.
Winters here are long and cold, with snow on the roof for weeks at a time and plenty of nights below freezing. When warm attic air melts the snow, the meltwater runs down and freezes again at the eaves, building ice dams that push water up under the shingles. Coastal storms and heavy spring rain drive water sideways into flashing, valleys and old chimneys. Most homeowners in Caldwell, NJ have the roof checked in the fall and again after the snow melts.
Small roof problems caught early usually stay small repairs.
Roofers in Caldwell know the roof types and weather wear common in local homes.
Ask the roofer about the cause, the options and the estimate before work starts.
More questions? Call (862) 399-1003
Fixing the metal flashing at walls, dormers, valleys and roof edges, with new metal instead of another layer of caulk.
Learn moreFinding where water gets through the roof and sealing it at the source, so the stain on the ceiling stops growing.
Learn moreFinding stubborn leaks that earlier patches missed, before anyone tears into the wrong part of the roof.
Learn moreSpot repairs for wind, hail and age damage on an asphalt shingle roof, matched to the shingles already on the house.
Learn moreLooking for something else?
See all roofing servicesCall (862) 399-1003 for a local roofer in Caldwell and nearby towns.