Cap flashing
Loose counter flashing is secured without relying on caulk alone.
A Caldwell roofer can stop leaks where the roof meets a wall, dormer, skylight or edge by renewing the flashing at that joint, so water is shed by the metal itself. One call to (862) 399-1003 reaches a nearby roofer who repairs flashing.
Flashing is the thin metal that seals every place the roof surface is interrupted. Step flashing is a series of small bent pieces woven in with each course of shingles along a sidewall, counter flashing laps over it from the wall side, a kickout at the bottom of the wall throws water into the gutter, and drip edge lines the eaves and rakes. Each of those pieces has one job, and when it fails, water finds the gap.
A failed kickout or step flashing tends to rot wall sheathing long before it stains a ceiling. At the base of a roof-to-wall joint, water with nowhere to go runs behind siding and soaks the wall framing. By the time it is visible, the repair may include some siding and wall sheathing too.
A bead of sealant along a joint is a warning sign, not a repair. Sealant can hold for a while, but it fails sooner or later, and the joint leaks once more. Proper flashing sheds water by gravity and lapping, so it keeps working even after any sealant ages.
Flashing Repair is often paired with chimney flashing repair and roof leak repair, depending on the cause.
Dealing with this in Caldwell, NJ right now? Call (862) 399-1003 and describe the problem to a roofer who works in Caldwell.
Call nowGood flashing work is mostly about the order things overlap.
The flashing is checked along its full length, from the eave up, along with the wall sheathing where it can be seen. Soft siding or stained trim below the joint suggests the wall needs a look too.
Siding is lifted or removed along the joint so the old flashing and housewrap can be reached. New flashing has to tuck behind the housewrap, which means opening the wall a little.
New step flashing is installed one piece per shingle course, each lapping the one below, with a kickout diverter at the bottom. Fasteners go into the roof deck only, never through the vertical leg into the wall.
On masonry walls, counter flashing is set into a cut joint; on framed walls, the housewrap and siding cover the flashing. The gap lets the joint dry and keeps trim from wicking water.
Drip edge along eaves and rakes is checked and replaced where it is bent or missing, lapped correctly with the underlayment. Correct laps at the edges keep water out of the fascia and soffit.
Loose counter flashing is secured without relying on caulk alone.
Loose or rusted step flashing is renewed behind the housewrap.
Headwall metal at the top of a slope is replaced so water cannot run behind it.
Edge metal is renewed along the roof perimeter with the underlayment lapped correctly.
Kickouts are fitted at the bottom of roof-to-wall joints to steer water into the gutter.
The scope of a flashing repair depends on the joint and on how much damage the water has done. Minor work includes refastening loose metal or adding a missing kickout; bigger jobs mean pulling siding and replacing every step piece along a wall. Ask the roofer which kind of repair your joint needs.
The metal used should suit the house. Aluminum is common and easy to form, galvanized steel is stiffer, and copper lasts a very long time; aluminum should not sit directly against fresh mortar or certain treated lumber, which can corrode it. Mixing copper with aluminum or galvanized metal in contact can cause corrosion, so the roofer matches the metal to what is already there.
A valley is where two roof slopes meet, and it channels a large share of the roof water toward the eave. In an open valley, a band of metal stays exposed down the center, while in a closed or woven valley the shingles cover the valley and the underlayment beneath does the heavy lifting. A peel-and-stick underlayment down the valley is the backup layer in both styles.
Leaves and needles that pile up in a valley hold water and wear the shingles or rust the metal. Uncut shingle corners can catch water and direct it under the roofing. Valley repair usually means removing the shingles along the valley, replacing the membrane and metal and reshingling with the right cuts.
Flashing repairs in Caldwell are common on houses with dormers, additions and second-story walls rising above lower roofs. Homes in Caldwell and nearby towns like Roseland, Pine Brook, Glen Ridge and Totowa range from older houses with aging galvanized flashing and no kickouts to newer homes with complex rooflines that rely on many wall joints, and each of those joints is a place worth checking.
Need flashing repair around Caldwell? Call (862) 399-1003 for a Caldwell roofer who serves the towns around it too.
Winters here are long and cold, with snow on the roof for weeks at a time and plenty of nights below freezing. When warm attic air melts the snow, the meltwater runs down and freezes again at the eaves, which is how ice dams form and back water up under the shingles. Coastal storms and heavy spring rain drive water sideways into flashing, valleys and old chimneys. That is why roof repair in Caldwell is busiest after a hard winter and before the next one.
Small roof problems caught early usually stay small repairs.
Local roofers see the same roofs and storm damage across Caldwell and nearby towns.
Ask the roofer about the cause, the options and the estimate before work starts.
More questions? Call (862) 399-1003
Chimney flashing rebuilt so the roof-to-brick joint sheds water again, instead of another coat of tar.
Learn moreFinding where water gets through the roof and sealing it at the source, so the stain on the ceiling stops growing.
Learn moreRepairs for skylight leaks, failed glass seals and worn flashing kits, so the opening stays dry through every storm.
Learn moreFixing the vents and pipe collars that poke through a roof and often leak first, so every opening in the roof stays sealed.
Learn moreLooking for something else?
See all roofing servicesCall now for Caldwell flashing repair and help in the towns around it.